Santa Cruz
The former judería, and now the lanes everyone walks between the cathedral and the Alcázar. Medieval street plan, whitewash, iron grilles, small squares.
⚠️ The outer edge is wall-to-wall tourist menus. Two hundred metres further in, the price halves and the food improves — this is the most reliable rule in the city.
Triana
Across the bridge: potters, sailors and flamenco families, and a district that thought of itself as separate for most of its history.
⭐ The ceramics are still made here and the tiled shopfronts are the advertising. The market sits on the excavated foundations of the castle that housed the Inquisition.
Doing both
Santa Cruz in the morning when the lanes are shaded and empty, Triana in the evening — cross at sunset for the view back, and eat on the far bank rather than returning.
