What is local
Salmorejo and gazpacho — cold, thick, and served all summer. Espinacas con garbanzos, spinach with chickpeas, a Moorish survival. Pescaíto frito, fish fried light and eaten with your hands. Sherry from down the road at Jerez, and cold dry manzanilla.
⚠️ Unlike Granada, a tapa is not free with your drink here. You order and pay for it.
The timetable
⭐ Nothing happens early. Lunch runs from two, dinner rarely before nine and often later, and the streets fill up when the temperature drops. Trying to eat on a northern European schedule means eating alone, in the places that cater to people doing exactly that.
Where not to eat
⚠️ The lanes immediately around the cathedral and the outer edge of Santa Cruz are priced for people who will not return. Walk five minutes — into Santa Cruz proper, north toward the Alfalfa, or across to Triana.
