Access Seville A river city built against the sun.

The Journal

New writing about Seville: the Alcázar slot, the shade, the river that ran an empire, and when to be where

Las Setas, the Roman level underneath, and the argument about bothLas Setas, the Roman level underneath, and the argument about bothThe Sevillian timetable, and eating at the right hourThe Sevillian timetable, and eating at the right hourSalmorejo, gazpacho, and why the food is coldSalmorejo, gazpacho, and why the food is coldEating four streets further from the cathedralEating four streets further from the cathedralTriana, and what is still made thereTriana, and what is still made thereThe Archivo de Indias: free, empty, and worth half an hourThe Archivo de Indias: free, empty, and worth half an hourHow a city 80 km inland ran an oceanHow a city 80 km inland ran an oceanWhy the lanes of Santa Cruz are that narrowWhy the lanes of Santa Cruz are that narrowThe awnings on Sierpes, and other things the city does about the sunThe awnings on Sierpes, and other things the city does about the sunWalking Seville in August without hating itWalking Seville in August without hating itThe Columbus tomb, and the argument about what is in itThe Columbus tomb, and the argument about what is in itClimbing the Giralda by ramp, and why there are no stairsClimbing the Giralda by ramp, and why there are no stairsThe mosque under the cathedral, and what is still standing of itThe mosque under the cathedral, and what is still standing of itThe gardens people run out of time forThe gardens people run out of time forWhat Mudéjar means, and how to read it in the Patio de las DoncellasWhat Mudéjar means, and how to read it in the Patio de las DoncellasGetting an Alcázar slot, and what the timed entry actually meansGetting an Alcázar slot, and what the timed entry actually means

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